Mini Donkey & Anatolian Shepherd Information
GeneralI'm sorry, but we no longer breed Anatolian Shepherds or Miniature Donkeys.
Some of the puppies that we've sold over the years:
Miscellaneous pictures of various Anatolians from our farm:
"The Legend of the Donkey's Cross""Bring me the colt of a donkey,"
was the Master's request. A young donkey was brought to Jesus to carry Him into Jerusalem. A week later Jesus was ordered to be crucified. The little donkey so loved the Lord that he wanted to help Him carry the cross. But, alas, he was pushed away. The sad little donkey waited to say goodbye until nearly all had left. As he turned to leave, the shadow of the cross fell upon the back and shoulders of the little donkey. And there it has remained, a tribute to the loyalty and love of the humblest of God's creatures. by Mary Singer |
Our Guardians
"Teddy Bear”
Male Brindle w/Black Mask DOB 12/10/2013 OFA - N/A Estimated Size at Maturity - 130 lbs & 30" Sire: Sir Cherokee Legend, Fawn w/Black Mask Grand Sire: Campbell's Nightwatch Legend, Fawn w/Black Mask Grand Dam: Urartu Savana, Fawn Dam: PHF Corinthia, Brindle w/Black Mask Grand Sire: Old Glory Rebel, Fawn w/Black Mask Grand Dam: Reid's Eve, Brindle w/Black Mask 
"CDF Rambo”
Male Brindle w/Black Mask DOB 2/13/2015 AKC #WS49456701 OFA - NA Microchip #: 981020013880207 Estimated Size at Maturity - 130 lbs & 32" Sire: VHA Farm's Attilla, Brindle w/Black Mask (WS42633503) Grand Sire: PHF Deuteronomy, Brindle w/Black Mask (WS41114201) Grand Dam: LGA Charity Cingene Hicks, Fawn w/Black Mask (WS39277302) Dam: VHA Farm's Jasmin, Fawn w/Black Mask (WS42223702) Grand Sire: Max, White Pinto (WS16299701) Grand Dam: Oh Scratchy, Fawn w/Black Mask (WS38307204) 
“Redcreek's Calabeth”
Female Fawn w/Black Mask DOB 4/10/2015 AKC #WS50060506 OFA - NA Microchip #: Estimated Size at Maturity - 110 lbs & 28" Sire: Redcreek's Chico, Fawn w/Black Mask (WS29828002) Grand Sire: Stovall's Geronamo, Fawn w/Black Mask (WS02239605) Grand Dam: Redcreek's Qachita, White w/Dutch Markings (WS14093306) Dam: Redcreek's Zeba, Fawn w/Black Mask (WS38458907) Grand Sire: Rockin' Rock's Maximus Decimus Merious, Fawn w/Black Mask (WS26376101) Grand Dam: Rocking Rock's Annie, Fawn w/Black Mask (WS20341506) 
“CDF Kimber Marie”
Female Brindle w/Black Mask DOB 9/22/2016 AKC #WS54808604 OFA - Pending Microchip #: 981020017675851 Estimated Size at Maturity - 110 lbs & 28" Sire: CDF Rambo, Brindle w/Black Mask (WS49456701) Grand Sire: VHA Farm's Attilla, Brindle w/Black Mask (WS42633503) Grand Dam: VHA Farm's Jasmin, Fawn w/Black Mask (WS42223702) Dam: Redcreek's Calabeth, Fawn w/Black Mask (WS50060506) Grand Sire: Redcreek's Chico, Fawn w/Black Mask (WS29828002) Grand Dam: Redcreek's Zeba, Fawn w/Black Mask (WS38458907) 
"Isha"
Female Fawn w/Black Mask DOB 12/6/21 |
Anatolian Shepherd Information
HISTORY
The Anatolian Shepherd Dog is one of the most majestic and noble animals in the service of man; still being used in the rural districts of Turkey as the shepherds' indispensable companion and front line of defense of his livestock from predators. Without the aid of the Anatolian Shepherd Dog, the Turkish shepherd would be less able to defend his property and flock from wild animals. Such dogs are found from the Turkish Anatolian plateau right on through to Afghanistan.
In Turkey today, the breed is known as Coban Kopegi (cho-bawn ko-pay) which translates to "Shepherd's Dog". He is a livestock guardian dog, living his life in constant association with his sheep or goats, and is accepted as a member of the flock. (He is NOT a herding dog)
The extraordinary speed and agility of the Anatolian Shepherd Dog enable him to run down a predator with great efficiency. Turkish Shepherds equip their dogs with impressive iron-spiked collars as protection against attacking animals that grab for the throat.
A large part of Central Anatolia is a high plateau of wide plains and rolling hills. Summers are dry, while winters are marked with heavy snowfalls and temperatures plunging well below freezing. Here in this environment, the Anatolian Shepherd Dog is a functional tool of the Turkish Shepherd.
Historically, since Babylonian times, there is documented a breed of large strong dogs with a heavy head. Some spectacular depictions of the breed dating back to 2,000 BC can be seen on the well preserved bas-reliefs in the Assyrian Rooms of the British Museum in London. With the advent of the first domestic sheep, the dogs went from "hunter" to "protector". The book of Job, which dates back to at least 1,800 BC and is set in the region of Turkey, makes reference to the dogs with the flocks.
The Anatolian Shepherd Dog of today has remained relatively unchanged from its ancestors because of the nature of its isolated existence. The Turks have for centuries been dependent upon the land for their livelihood, relying on domesticated animals as an integral part of their existence. For this reason, perhaps, the characteristics of the Anatolian have been so exactly preserved, characteristics well adapted to: Turkey's hot climate and terrain; the lifestyle of the shepherds that, until modern times, was nomadic; and the job of guarding the village flocks against fierce predators.
The first Anatolian Shepherd Dogs to enter the United States arrived prior to the 1950s. However, the first active breeding program in the United States was the result of the importation of a breeding pair of dogs by Lt. Robert C. Ballard, USN, who was stationed in Turkey from 1966 to 1968. Upon their return to the United States, the Ballards settled in El Cajon, California, where on August 16th, 1970, their imports Zorba and Peki produced the first recorded American-bred litter. The year 1970 also saw the founding of the National Breed Club, the Anatolian Shepherd Dog Club of America.
On June 12, 1995, the American Kennel Club announced formal recognition of the Anatolian Shepherd Dog, effective to be shown in the Miscellaneous Class beginning June 1, 1996. On August 12, 1998, the American Kennel Club granted full recognition to the Anatolian Shepherd Dog effective June 1, 1999 (entered the Working Group).
The Anatolian Shepherd Dog is a versatile breed. Here in the United States, the Anatolian guards everything from chickens, goats, and sheep to cattle. A few even guard miniature horses, ostriches, and llamas. Some dogs are shown in conformation, obedience, and working classes; a few are certified as therapy dogs. Anatolian Shepherd Dogs are also used as companions and family protectors. Many Anatolian Shepherds live on small farms, suburban homes, or ranches where they fulfill a duty of family companion/guardian, livestock guardian and/or show dog. These Anatolians have the best of both worlds ... a family and a job!
BACKGROUND
GENERAL: After several centuries of breeding for specific traits, we now have a breed of large guardians that bond to livestock, patrol and protect their territory like soldiers, and still manage to be loving companions and eye-catching showdogs. Some have even excelled in obedience competition, and as therapy and service dogs. The Anatolian is as comfortable in the North American mountain ranges, bedded down with the flocks it protects from cougar and bear, as it is lying on the rug at your feet. The key to successful ownership is understanding the needs and the abilities of this remarkable breed. They are intelligent dogs, devoted to their owners, gentle and protective of their charges, and fearless when a threat arises.
The name given to this breed .. Anatolian Shepherd Dog ... is a misnomer in that they do not herd the flocks, but protect them ... hence the designation "Livestock Guardian". However, this is not the only thing they are good at. Sometimes, while working in the fields, Turkish women will fasten one end of a rope around their young children's waists and the other end to an Anatolian's collar. They can then go about their chores, assured of the safety of their children.
Anatolians are capable of functioning in 100-degree-plus or 0-degree-minus weather. They survive when water is scarce in summer, when snow drifts are higher than their heads in winter, and when scavenging is their meal ticket the year round. Anatolians also carry out their tasks with alacrity. In Turkey, protecting their masters' flocks against wolves, jackals and lions is their goal. Anatolians are not pampered, nor can their owners generally afford to give them veterinary care beyond that which is necessary to keep them healthy enough for guard duty. In addition, the Anatolian exists without benefit of a breed name, much less records or pedigrees, in its native land. There it is known by the generic designation “Çoban Köpegi”, which means "shepherd's dog." It is important to note that these dogs are "guardians" and DO NOT HERD. The basic difference here is that herding breeds have a high prey drive and usually cannot be left unsupervised with livestock, as they have been known to kill animals that take fright and run from them. The LGD, on the other hand, is expected to bond with their charges and have a very low prey drive so that they protect, not harm their charges. Many owners of Guardian breeds feel that these dogs give them a "safe" feeling they never experienced with any other dog ... even those who previously owned traditional "guard" dogs such as German Shepherd, Rottweilers and Doberman Pinschers.
CHARACTERISTICS: A large breed of Livestock Guardian dog, the Anatolian is a fiercely loyal guardian that demonstrates a possessive attitude towards family, property and livestock. He is suspicious of strangers, reserved when in public, and may expect a "formal introduction" before tolerating any familiarities. The Anatolian is NOT a dog for everyone, but for those select few who learn to live with this very demanding breed, it can be a most rewarding experience!!
TEMPERAMENT: The Anatolian will generally get along with any animals it grows up with or has decided to "adopt" as its flock. They are especially good with well behaved children; however, it is never recommended to leave very young children alone with a large dog, no matter how nice or gentle the dog is.
HISTORY: The Anatolian is an ancient Turkish Livestock Guardian that is considered one of the large breeds of Molloser-type dogs. Humans are believed to have first lived in what was originally called Mesopotamia, now Turkey, and surrounding areas. Records show that fossils suggesting large Mastiff-type dogs appeared at the same time as fossils of grazing "flock" animals. This puts forth the theory that the Livestock Guardian breeds were probably among the first domestic dogs. The Anatolian is believed to have been developed by shepherds crossing these large Molloser-type dogs with the Turkish sighthounds to get a guardian with the speed to run down whatever was threatening their flocks of sheep or goats and have the strength to deal with the predator, be it wolf, bear, or lion, in the most effective manner. There is also a theory that the Asian Wolf might be part of the Anatolian makeup.
Much has happened since the late 1930's, when the Turkish government sent the first Anatolian Shepherd Dogs to the United States government to be used in the first 'sheepdog' studies. Now Anatolians are working all over the world, from Africa to the United States, to successfully protect livestock from predation. It is hoped that some of the information on this site will help give a working understanding, perspective and perhaps historical insight into the land-race breed that is known internationally as the “Anatolian Shepherd Dog”.
The name "Anatolian Shepherd Dog" has been a subject of much controversy. There are those who believe there are three completely separate breeds of Turkish Livestock Guardians (Akbash, Kangal & Kars Dogs), while others choose to believe there is only one breed with regional and color varieties.
The names “Anatolian Shepherd Dog”, “Çoban Köpegi”, "Gammel", “Chien de berger d'Anatolie”, “Anatolischer Hirtenhund” and “Perro de pastor de Anatolia” are all derivative of a known fact - these dogs are the shepherd's dog evolved from the historical region of Anatolia. All names reflect understanding and respect for this dog as one which comes from a long standing working heritage that predates our time - truly the working dog of shepherds.
ORIGIN: Native to the rural districts of Turkey.
UTILIZATION: Flock guardian, Family companion/guardian.
SIZE: Large
HEIGHT: Males: 29+" - Females: 27+"
WEIGHT: Males: 100+ lbs - Females: 80+ lbs
GROOMING: Little (mostly seasonal)
EXCERCISE: Moderate (spurts, early in morning or at night when cool)
HEALTH: Very hardy breed
LIFE SPAN: 12-16 years
The Anatolian Shepherd Dog is one of the most majestic and noble animals in the service of man; still being used in the rural districts of Turkey as the shepherds' indispensable companion and front line of defense of his livestock from predators. Without the aid of the Anatolian Shepherd Dog, the Turkish shepherd would be less able to defend his property and flock from wild animals. Such dogs are found from the Turkish Anatolian plateau right on through to Afghanistan.
In Turkey today, the breed is known as Coban Kopegi (cho-bawn ko-pay) which translates to "Shepherd's Dog". He is a livestock guardian dog, living his life in constant association with his sheep or goats, and is accepted as a member of the flock. (He is NOT a herding dog)
The extraordinary speed and agility of the Anatolian Shepherd Dog enable him to run down a predator with great efficiency. Turkish Shepherds equip their dogs with impressive iron-spiked collars as protection against attacking animals that grab for the throat.
A large part of Central Anatolia is a high plateau of wide plains and rolling hills. Summers are dry, while winters are marked with heavy snowfalls and temperatures plunging well below freezing. Here in this environment, the Anatolian Shepherd Dog is a functional tool of the Turkish Shepherd.
Historically, since Babylonian times, there is documented a breed of large strong dogs with a heavy head. Some spectacular depictions of the breed dating back to 2,000 BC can be seen on the well preserved bas-reliefs in the Assyrian Rooms of the British Museum in London. With the advent of the first domestic sheep, the dogs went from "hunter" to "protector". The book of Job, which dates back to at least 1,800 BC and is set in the region of Turkey, makes reference to the dogs with the flocks.
The Anatolian Shepherd Dog of today has remained relatively unchanged from its ancestors because of the nature of its isolated existence. The Turks have for centuries been dependent upon the land for their livelihood, relying on domesticated animals as an integral part of their existence. For this reason, perhaps, the characteristics of the Anatolian have been so exactly preserved, characteristics well adapted to: Turkey's hot climate and terrain; the lifestyle of the shepherds that, until modern times, was nomadic; and the job of guarding the village flocks against fierce predators.
The first Anatolian Shepherd Dogs to enter the United States arrived prior to the 1950s. However, the first active breeding program in the United States was the result of the importation of a breeding pair of dogs by Lt. Robert C. Ballard, USN, who was stationed in Turkey from 1966 to 1968. Upon their return to the United States, the Ballards settled in El Cajon, California, where on August 16th, 1970, their imports Zorba and Peki produced the first recorded American-bred litter. The year 1970 also saw the founding of the National Breed Club, the Anatolian Shepherd Dog Club of America.
On June 12, 1995, the American Kennel Club announced formal recognition of the Anatolian Shepherd Dog, effective to be shown in the Miscellaneous Class beginning June 1, 1996. On August 12, 1998, the American Kennel Club granted full recognition to the Anatolian Shepherd Dog effective June 1, 1999 (entered the Working Group).
The Anatolian Shepherd Dog is a versatile breed. Here in the United States, the Anatolian guards everything from chickens, goats, and sheep to cattle. A few even guard miniature horses, ostriches, and llamas. Some dogs are shown in conformation, obedience, and working classes; a few are certified as therapy dogs. Anatolian Shepherd Dogs are also used as companions and family protectors. Many Anatolian Shepherds live on small farms, suburban homes, or ranches where they fulfill a duty of family companion/guardian, livestock guardian and/or show dog. These Anatolians have the best of both worlds ... a family and a job!
BACKGROUND
GENERAL: After several centuries of breeding for specific traits, we now have a breed of large guardians that bond to livestock, patrol and protect their territory like soldiers, and still manage to be loving companions and eye-catching showdogs. Some have even excelled in obedience competition, and as therapy and service dogs. The Anatolian is as comfortable in the North American mountain ranges, bedded down with the flocks it protects from cougar and bear, as it is lying on the rug at your feet. The key to successful ownership is understanding the needs and the abilities of this remarkable breed. They are intelligent dogs, devoted to their owners, gentle and protective of their charges, and fearless when a threat arises.
The name given to this breed .. Anatolian Shepherd Dog ... is a misnomer in that they do not herd the flocks, but protect them ... hence the designation "Livestock Guardian". However, this is not the only thing they are good at. Sometimes, while working in the fields, Turkish women will fasten one end of a rope around their young children's waists and the other end to an Anatolian's collar. They can then go about their chores, assured of the safety of their children.
Anatolians are capable of functioning in 100-degree-plus or 0-degree-minus weather. They survive when water is scarce in summer, when snow drifts are higher than their heads in winter, and when scavenging is their meal ticket the year round. Anatolians also carry out their tasks with alacrity. In Turkey, protecting their masters' flocks against wolves, jackals and lions is their goal. Anatolians are not pampered, nor can their owners generally afford to give them veterinary care beyond that which is necessary to keep them healthy enough for guard duty. In addition, the Anatolian exists without benefit of a breed name, much less records or pedigrees, in its native land. There it is known by the generic designation “Çoban Köpegi”, which means "shepherd's dog." It is important to note that these dogs are "guardians" and DO NOT HERD. The basic difference here is that herding breeds have a high prey drive and usually cannot be left unsupervised with livestock, as they have been known to kill animals that take fright and run from them. The LGD, on the other hand, is expected to bond with their charges and have a very low prey drive so that they protect, not harm their charges. Many owners of Guardian breeds feel that these dogs give them a "safe" feeling they never experienced with any other dog ... even those who previously owned traditional "guard" dogs such as German Shepherd, Rottweilers and Doberman Pinschers.
CHARACTERISTICS: A large breed of Livestock Guardian dog, the Anatolian is a fiercely loyal guardian that demonstrates a possessive attitude towards family, property and livestock. He is suspicious of strangers, reserved when in public, and may expect a "formal introduction" before tolerating any familiarities. The Anatolian is NOT a dog for everyone, but for those select few who learn to live with this very demanding breed, it can be a most rewarding experience!!
TEMPERAMENT: The Anatolian will generally get along with any animals it grows up with or has decided to "adopt" as its flock. They are especially good with well behaved children; however, it is never recommended to leave very young children alone with a large dog, no matter how nice or gentle the dog is.
HISTORY: The Anatolian is an ancient Turkish Livestock Guardian that is considered one of the large breeds of Molloser-type dogs. Humans are believed to have first lived in what was originally called Mesopotamia, now Turkey, and surrounding areas. Records show that fossils suggesting large Mastiff-type dogs appeared at the same time as fossils of grazing "flock" animals. This puts forth the theory that the Livestock Guardian breeds were probably among the first domestic dogs. The Anatolian is believed to have been developed by shepherds crossing these large Molloser-type dogs with the Turkish sighthounds to get a guardian with the speed to run down whatever was threatening their flocks of sheep or goats and have the strength to deal with the predator, be it wolf, bear, or lion, in the most effective manner. There is also a theory that the Asian Wolf might be part of the Anatolian makeup.
Much has happened since the late 1930's, when the Turkish government sent the first Anatolian Shepherd Dogs to the United States government to be used in the first 'sheepdog' studies. Now Anatolians are working all over the world, from Africa to the United States, to successfully protect livestock from predation. It is hoped that some of the information on this site will help give a working understanding, perspective and perhaps historical insight into the land-race breed that is known internationally as the “Anatolian Shepherd Dog”.
The name "Anatolian Shepherd Dog" has been a subject of much controversy. There are those who believe there are three completely separate breeds of Turkish Livestock Guardians (Akbash, Kangal & Kars Dogs), while others choose to believe there is only one breed with regional and color varieties.
The names “Anatolian Shepherd Dog”, “Çoban Köpegi”, "Gammel", “Chien de berger d'Anatolie”, “Anatolischer Hirtenhund” and “Perro de pastor de Anatolia” are all derivative of a known fact - these dogs are the shepherd's dog evolved from the historical region of Anatolia. All names reflect understanding and respect for this dog as one which comes from a long standing working heritage that predates our time - truly the working dog of shepherds.
ORIGIN: Native to the rural districts of Turkey.
UTILIZATION: Flock guardian, Family companion/guardian.
SIZE: Large
HEIGHT: Males: 29+" - Females: 27+"
WEIGHT: Males: 100+ lbs - Females: 80+ lbs
GROOMING: Little (mostly seasonal)
EXCERCISE: Moderate (spurts, early in morning or at night when cool)
HEALTH: Very hardy breed
LIFE SPAN: 12-16 years
Miniature Donkey Care - TIPS
The following "general" tips are provided as a guideline to care. There are many books available for miniature donkey owners that can provide much more detailed care instructions and the tips provided on this webpage simply identify the practices that we have incorporated into and utilize on our farm. That said, one should always be prepared to contact a licensed veterinarian when necessary.
Shelter:
Donkeys need to have access to a 3-sided shed for protection against the cold north winds of the winter and the hot sun of the summer. However, don't be concerned if your donkeys don't use the shelter very often, they will when they need to.
Water:
Donkeys should have access to good, clean water 24 hours a day. We recommend installing a float valve system on a watering trough to insure its availability. Troughs also need to be cleaned periodically, especially in the summer during high heat, to remove bacteria and algae. Although not required as often, troughs should be cleaned periodically in winter as well. Finally, ensure that watering troughs are not too deep as this becomes a drowning hazard for foals should they fall in.
Feed - Hay:
A good quality hay should always be fed to your donkeys whether on pasture or not. However, if you find that your donkeys are starting to get fat after reaching maturity, then discontinue or reduce the amount of hay and/or grain, especially if you have rich pastures...but only in the summer months. Hay should be given at all times in the winter when pasture is unavailable. Coastal Bermuda or Orchard Grass is preferred over Alfalfa due to richness of the Alfalfa hay. To better control your donkey's diet, you may opt to feed hay twice a day, and although it afords you the opportunity to constantly check on your donkeys, in many cases this becomes too labor intensive. In fact, some farms will "free fed" hay, which simply means that hay is always available for the donkeys to eat when they so choose. We feed Coastal Bermuda to our donkeys.
Feed - Grain:
A cup (max) of grain supplement per donkey (such as sweet feed) is recommended for daily feeding during the winter months and every two to three days during the summer. Foals and nursing jennets should get a doubled amount of 14% protein supplement daily during nursing while all the others over one year of age get a 10% protein supplement. DO NOT OVERFEED GRAIN! Historically, donkeys are used to sparce food supplies and should not be overfed. If you do overfeed, you will find that your donkey will begin to develop a "fat roll" on its neck if they are eating too much or too rich a diet...this "fat roll" will NOT go away. If you do see this happening, cut down on the amount of sweet feed, the protein percentage, frequency, or a combination of the three. Do not give anything less than 10% protein. Although some folks feed grain throughout the year and others only feed grain in the winter months, foals are the only ones that should definitely be fed supplemental grain while they are growing.
Feed - Trace Supplement:
A trace mineral supplement (such as 12-12) should be made available to your donkeys at all times and they will eat it only as needed. Some preference is for the granular form rather than the hard mineral blocks due to the ease of eating. Another concern regarding the block is that until the donkey is completely mature at around five, it will not have all of its permanent teeth and they may not be able to use the mineral block very well if they are missing some of their teeth.
Toxic Plants:
There are a few plants that are toxic to equines. Since this varies from location to location, we recommend consulting your vet to determine the toxic plants of your area. However, do not panic if you find that you have toxic plants in your pasture. If you are feeding properly, your donkeys will have no need to eat a toxic plant. Remember, donkeys are smart animals and will selectively eat the non toxic plants if there is enough food available. If you find that your donkeys are eating an abundance of acorns in the fall, you may want to give them some wheat bran to flush their bowels. Again, consult your local vet for advice and help with your donkey's health care needs.
Brushing/Bathing:
Donkeys love attention. Your donkey can be brushed and/or bathed as necessary, but keep in mind that donkeys love to roll in the dirt...espectially after a good bath!
Hoof Care:
In most cases, donkeys need to have their hooves trimmed every two to three months. However, if your donkey lives in a rocky area, trimming may be required less frequently. Although some farms have the experience to do this internally, we would recommend that you consult with a local farrier to ensure that the hooves are trimmed correctly. Hooves trimmed incorrectly over time can cause severe damage and pain to the donkey. Proper farrier technics are critical for the health of your donkey. During exceptionally wet times, it is recommended that you clean your donkey's hooves with a hoof pick to expose bacteria to the air...which kills the bacteria. To further insure the cleanliness of your donkey's hooves, you can apply (squirt) a solution of 4 parts water to 1 part Clorox Bleach (4:1 Water to Bleach ratio) to the sole of the hoof. However, care must be taken so as not to squirt the solution onto the skin (hair area) because it could cause an irritation to the donkey.
Worming:
Donkeys need to be wormed every two to three months with an Equine wormer. It is also recommended that wormers be rotated each time to maximize its effectiveness by insuring the parasites do not develop an immunity to the wormer. We have read that some vets advise staying with an ivermectin product (Zimecterin or Equalan) for a year then changing to a fenbendazole (SafeGuard or Panacur) for one application before resuming treatment with the ivermectin...however, we would recommend consulting your vet on this. Wormers are safe and effective as long as the instructions are followed and the correct dosage(s) are given. Keep in mind that under dosing is the same as not worming at all and will result in poor parasite control. After placing the wormer in the back of your donkey's mouth, we would suggest giving them a bite or two of grain to ensure that the wormer is swallowed and doesn't get spit out. One trick that I've heard of is giving your donkey a "medicine sandwich" that consists of paste wormer spread onto a slice of bread and folded over. Keep in mind though that donkeys are very smart and will likely catch onto this trick after a time or two. Wormers can be purchased (in paste or pellet form) on the internet and mail order catalogs (e.g. Jeffers, etc.), vets and vet supply outlets, co-ops, or at feed stores...we generally buy ours at the local Tractor Supply Company (TSC).
Foal Worming:
Foals should be wormed at two months of age with a fenbendazole product first because of its protection against roundworms...which are more common in foals and younger animals.
Annual Vaccinations:
We vaccinate all donkeys over 4 months of age once per year. Some give these annual shots at the beginning of fly season (March or April) while some administer the annual shot in January. The time really isn't as important as just insuring that your donkeys receive their shot(s) as required. We vaccinate our donkeys with the following:
- Eastern Encephalomyelitis
- Western Encephalomyelitis
- Tetanus
- Influenza
- Rabies
Consult your local veterinarian to determine the shots recommended for your specific area. Vaccinations are not hard to administer and can be done easily once confident in your own abilities. Have your vet instruct you until you are comfortable in knowing both how and where to administer the injections. However, always let the vet administer injections into veins...NEVER administer vein shots yourself!
Special Vaccinations:
Pregnant Jennets should receive a Rhinopneumonitis injection in the 5th, 7th and 9th months of pregnancy to prevent abortion. Foals should recieve a Tetanus Antitoxin injection (1 cc) at birth, especially if the dam was not vaccinated for Tetanus 30 days prior to foaling. Foals are given their first annual vaccination at two to three months, a booster 30 days later, and are then boosted annually.
Training - Trailer:
Donkeys are sometimes (initially) afraid of the transport trailer. A trick to overcoming this fear is to leave your trailer in the pasture and allow passive access into the trailer. A way to "encourage" them to enter the trailer is by putting some grain in the front of the trailer. Over time you will find that the fear of the trailer is overcome and replaced by jumping in and out of the trailer like it is a toy.
Training - Lead:
Never try to "pull" a donkey...they will generally always win. Instead, when first trying to teach them to lead, tie them to a post for a 15 minute training session and let them learn that pulling doesn't solve their problem. Once they understand this, leading will be much more easily grasped. After being tied to a post for awhile, the pulling and fighting will be replaced by a calm and peaceful stand (maybe even a nap). After the training session on the post, try leading them. If they "act up" and begin to pull, don't fight with them...tie them up for another 15 minute training session. You will find that they will begin to lead easier and easier as you continue to work with them. Don't lose your patience and hit the donkey, they are simply trying to determine what to do.
Shelter:
Donkeys need to have access to a 3-sided shed for protection against the cold north winds of the winter and the hot sun of the summer. However, don't be concerned if your donkeys don't use the shelter very often, they will when they need to.
Water:
Donkeys should have access to good, clean water 24 hours a day. We recommend installing a float valve system on a watering trough to insure its availability. Troughs also need to be cleaned periodically, especially in the summer during high heat, to remove bacteria and algae. Although not required as often, troughs should be cleaned periodically in winter as well. Finally, ensure that watering troughs are not too deep as this becomes a drowning hazard for foals should they fall in.
Feed - Hay:
A good quality hay should always be fed to your donkeys whether on pasture or not. However, if you find that your donkeys are starting to get fat after reaching maturity, then discontinue or reduce the amount of hay and/or grain, especially if you have rich pastures...but only in the summer months. Hay should be given at all times in the winter when pasture is unavailable. Coastal Bermuda or Orchard Grass is preferred over Alfalfa due to richness of the Alfalfa hay. To better control your donkey's diet, you may opt to feed hay twice a day, and although it afords you the opportunity to constantly check on your donkeys, in many cases this becomes too labor intensive. In fact, some farms will "free fed" hay, which simply means that hay is always available for the donkeys to eat when they so choose. We feed Coastal Bermuda to our donkeys.
Feed - Grain:
A cup (max) of grain supplement per donkey (such as sweet feed) is recommended for daily feeding during the winter months and every two to three days during the summer. Foals and nursing jennets should get a doubled amount of 14% protein supplement daily during nursing while all the others over one year of age get a 10% protein supplement. DO NOT OVERFEED GRAIN! Historically, donkeys are used to sparce food supplies and should not be overfed. If you do overfeed, you will find that your donkey will begin to develop a "fat roll" on its neck if they are eating too much or too rich a diet...this "fat roll" will NOT go away. If you do see this happening, cut down on the amount of sweet feed, the protein percentage, frequency, or a combination of the three. Do not give anything less than 10% protein. Although some folks feed grain throughout the year and others only feed grain in the winter months, foals are the only ones that should definitely be fed supplemental grain while they are growing.
Feed - Trace Supplement:
A trace mineral supplement (such as 12-12) should be made available to your donkeys at all times and they will eat it only as needed. Some preference is for the granular form rather than the hard mineral blocks due to the ease of eating. Another concern regarding the block is that until the donkey is completely mature at around five, it will not have all of its permanent teeth and they may not be able to use the mineral block very well if they are missing some of their teeth.
Toxic Plants:
There are a few plants that are toxic to equines. Since this varies from location to location, we recommend consulting your vet to determine the toxic plants of your area. However, do not panic if you find that you have toxic plants in your pasture. If you are feeding properly, your donkeys will have no need to eat a toxic plant. Remember, donkeys are smart animals and will selectively eat the non toxic plants if there is enough food available. If you find that your donkeys are eating an abundance of acorns in the fall, you may want to give them some wheat bran to flush their bowels. Again, consult your local vet for advice and help with your donkey's health care needs.
Brushing/Bathing:
Donkeys love attention. Your donkey can be brushed and/or bathed as necessary, but keep in mind that donkeys love to roll in the dirt...espectially after a good bath!
Hoof Care:
In most cases, donkeys need to have their hooves trimmed every two to three months. However, if your donkey lives in a rocky area, trimming may be required less frequently. Although some farms have the experience to do this internally, we would recommend that you consult with a local farrier to ensure that the hooves are trimmed correctly. Hooves trimmed incorrectly over time can cause severe damage and pain to the donkey. Proper farrier technics are critical for the health of your donkey. During exceptionally wet times, it is recommended that you clean your donkey's hooves with a hoof pick to expose bacteria to the air...which kills the bacteria. To further insure the cleanliness of your donkey's hooves, you can apply (squirt) a solution of 4 parts water to 1 part Clorox Bleach (4:1 Water to Bleach ratio) to the sole of the hoof. However, care must be taken so as not to squirt the solution onto the skin (hair area) because it could cause an irritation to the donkey.
Worming:
Donkeys need to be wormed every two to three months with an Equine wormer. It is also recommended that wormers be rotated each time to maximize its effectiveness by insuring the parasites do not develop an immunity to the wormer. We have read that some vets advise staying with an ivermectin product (Zimecterin or Equalan) for a year then changing to a fenbendazole (SafeGuard or Panacur) for one application before resuming treatment with the ivermectin...however, we would recommend consulting your vet on this. Wormers are safe and effective as long as the instructions are followed and the correct dosage(s) are given. Keep in mind that under dosing is the same as not worming at all and will result in poor parasite control. After placing the wormer in the back of your donkey's mouth, we would suggest giving them a bite or two of grain to ensure that the wormer is swallowed and doesn't get spit out. One trick that I've heard of is giving your donkey a "medicine sandwich" that consists of paste wormer spread onto a slice of bread and folded over. Keep in mind though that donkeys are very smart and will likely catch onto this trick after a time or two. Wormers can be purchased (in paste or pellet form) on the internet and mail order catalogs (e.g. Jeffers, etc.), vets and vet supply outlets, co-ops, or at feed stores...we generally buy ours at the local Tractor Supply Company (TSC).
Foal Worming:
Foals should be wormed at two months of age with a fenbendazole product first because of its protection against roundworms...which are more common in foals and younger animals.
Annual Vaccinations:
We vaccinate all donkeys over 4 months of age once per year. Some give these annual shots at the beginning of fly season (March or April) while some administer the annual shot in January. The time really isn't as important as just insuring that your donkeys receive their shot(s) as required. We vaccinate our donkeys with the following:
- Eastern Encephalomyelitis
- Western Encephalomyelitis
- Tetanus
- Influenza
- Rabies
Consult your local veterinarian to determine the shots recommended for your specific area. Vaccinations are not hard to administer and can be done easily once confident in your own abilities. Have your vet instruct you until you are comfortable in knowing both how and where to administer the injections. However, always let the vet administer injections into veins...NEVER administer vein shots yourself!
Special Vaccinations:
Pregnant Jennets should receive a Rhinopneumonitis injection in the 5th, 7th and 9th months of pregnancy to prevent abortion. Foals should recieve a Tetanus Antitoxin injection (1 cc) at birth, especially if the dam was not vaccinated for Tetanus 30 days prior to foaling. Foals are given their first annual vaccination at two to three months, a booster 30 days later, and are then boosted annually.
Training - Trailer:
Donkeys are sometimes (initially) afraid of the transport trailer. A trick to overcoming this fear is to leave your trailer in the pasture and allow passive access into the trailer. A way to "encourage" them to enter the trailer is by putting some grain in the front of the trailer. Over time you will find that the fear of the trailer is overcome and replaced by jumping in and out of the trailer like it is a toy.
Training - Lead:
Never try to "pull" a donkey...they will generally always win. Instead, when first trying to teach them to lead, tie them to a post for a 15 minute training session and let them learn that pulling doesn't solve their problem. Once they understand this, leading will be much more easily grasped. After being tied to a post for awhile, the pulling and fighting will be replaced by a calm and peaceful stand (maybe even a nap). After the training session on the post, try leading them. If they "act up" and begin to pull, don't fight with them...tie them up for another 15 minute training session. You will find that they will begin to lead easier and easier as you continue to work with them. Don't lose your patience and hit the donkey, they are simply trying to determine what to do.
CD Farms, LLC
Dave & Charlene Walters
785 Burnt Chimney Road, Campobello, SC 29322
864.915.5524 / 864.915.5129
Dave & Charlene Walters
785 Burnt Chimney Road, Campobello, SC 29322
864.915.5524 / 864.915.5129